So if you're probably reading this you might be interested or frustrated with your 3D Printer. I'm here to tell you that it's going to be okay *pats back*. In this blog I'm going to show you 5 software settings to ease your 3D Printing Experience.
So some of the problems that people with 3D Printers have is extrusion problems which include:
Stringing (Over Extrusion)
Gaps in between layers (Under Extrusion)
Bulging corners (Over Extrusion)
Bubbling on the outer layers (Over Extrusion)
Horrible at 3D Printing (Bad Extrusion)
When I first got my 3D Printer I sucked. I did not know what I was doing and got frustrated very easily. Especially when I found out that my 3D Printer only accepted proprietary filament at a crazy price. That's when I learned about Marlin & Repetier Host.
That's when I really started to learn about 3D Printing and how complex it can be if there is no one to guide you. This is the main reason why I'm made this blog post is to alleviate any stress that 3D Printing may be causing. I'm going to make this very easy so that includes screenshots with arrows and if that doesn't help you can always comment below or email me in the contact us button.
Trick #1: Use Skirt or Brim
Why do I want you to use Brim?
Brim is great to prime your nozzle before 3D Printing your parts so that you can ensure that when the hot end comes around to actually 3D Print your parts you can ensure that it is extruding plastic and also ensure a good first layer.
Trick #2: Directing your 3D Printer
What do I mean when I say directing your 3D Printer?
When I say this I mean that you should set your path of your 3D Printer to outside in rather than inside out. Why might you want to do this? Glad you asked. Setting your 3D Printer to outside in means that the last line of the layer will be finish inside the part rather than outside the part.
The benefits of doing this is because if you do have some oozing at the end of each layer that you just can't get rid of it will be oozing inside of the infill rather than the outside perimeter. This removes the linear blob each time your printer stops, oozes then lowers your bed before performing the next layer. This also minimized any stringing if you don't have the "Retraction Vertical Lift" option enabled.
Trick #3: First Layer height and width
This is important if you want your bed adhesion to be perfect.
During the first layer you really have to go slow and make sure you have enough plastic to stick to the bed. Some settings that you can set to ensure that is your First Layer Height and Width. These can be changed in vice versa and have the same effect. I like to put my height below 100% and width to above 100%. This worked out pretty good for me so far.
Trick #4: Be sure to Wipe!
Just make sure you enable both of these settings so that your extrude reduces its stringing. It also helps with oozing at the end of the line. I like to leave my wipe distance between 2 to 5 mm. You also might want to enable retracting while your extruder is wiping so that you leave less of a stringing effect across your part.
What wipe does that it backtracks its previous path without extruding so that you remove any pressure or oozing that might occur when going directly to the next path. It's good to pair this with the retracting setting I suggested earlier so you can improve your outcome even further.
Trick #5: Make Everything Relative
This last one is not really necessary but it is good to use so that you can make better setting changing decisions. If you have this setting disabled your machine is in absolute positioning which examples are shown below. One you change it to relative positioning it will be much easier to make decisions. Enjoy!
The top is absolute positioning and the bottom is relative positioning.
I hope this really helped everyone because I do understand how difficult 3D Printing can be and how easy it can be too. With just a little push and some advice here and there could go a long way. As always have a great day!